Sarajevo Food Guide 2026: What to Eat, Where to Eat & How to Order Like You Know the City

Sarajevo Food Guide 2026: Why This Is One of Europe’s Most Underrated Food Cities

Sarajevo food guide 2026 — if you visit Bosnia and Herzegovina’s capital and only eat one plate of ćevapi, you have missed the point.

Sarajevo is one of Europe’s most underrated food cities, but not in the lazy way every travel article calls somewhere “underrated.” Sarajevo is specifically underrated because its food culture is compact, affordable, deeply local, and easy to experience without needing expensive restaurants.

In a few streets around Baščaršija, you can eat charcoal-grilled ćevapi in a traditional ćevabdžinica, buy fresh burek or sirnica from a buregdžinica, point at stews in an aščinica, drink Bosnian coffee from a copper džezva, try tufahija after lunch, and finish the night in a kafana where the meal turns into music and conversation.

The best part is that Sarajevo food is not difficult to access. You do not need a tasting menu, a reservation months in advance, or a food critic’s budget. You need to know what the signs mean, what to order, what not to call “burek,” and where tourists accidentally choose the wrong kind of restaurant.

This Sarajevo food guide explains what to eat, where to eat it, how to order, and the small local distinctions that make the difference between simply eating in Sarajevo and actually understanding the city’s food.

For the broader city guide, read: Is Sarajevo Worth Visiting in 2026? Honest Travel Guide, Costs & Safety


Quick Answer: What Should You Eat in Sarajevo?

If you only have one or two days in Sarajevo, start with these dishes.

What to EatWhat It IsWhere to Try It
ĆevapiGrilled minced-meat sausages in somun breadBaščaršija ćevabdžinicas
BurekMeat-filled Bosnian pieBuregdžinica Bosna or Sač-style bakeries
SirnicaCheese-filled pitaBuregdžinicas
KrompiračaPotato-filled pitaBuregdžinicas
ZeljanicaSpinach/greens and cheese pitaBuregdžinicas
Begova čorbaRich chicken and vegetable soupAščinicas or traditional restaurants
GrahBean stewAščinicas
SarmaStuffed cabbage rollsTraditional restaurants
KlepeBosnian dumplings/ravioli with meatDveri, Eno or traditional restaurants
TufahijaPoached apple stuffed with walnutsDessert shops or traditional restaurants
Bosnian coffeeStrong coffee served in džezva and fildžanBaščaršija coffee houses
RakijaFruit brandyKafanas and traditional restaurants

If you only have time for three food stops, do this:

1. Ćevapi in Baščaršija
2. Burek or sirnica from a buregdžinica
3. Bosnian coffee in a traditional café

The Sarajevo Food Glossary You Need Before You Order

Walking through Baščaršija without knowing these words means missing half of what is around you.

WordMeaningWhy It Matters
ĆevabdžinicaA restaurant specializing in ćevapiBest place for Sarajevo’s most famous dish
BuregdžinicaA bakery/restaurant selling burek and pitaBest for breakfast or brunch
AščinicaCafeteria-style place serving ready-made Bosnian stews and soupsCheapest and most local-style meal
KafanaTraditional restaurant/café-bar with food, rakija and sometimes live musicBetter for slow meals and evenings
DžezvaSmall copper pot for Bosnian coffeePart of the coffee ritual
FildžanSmall handleless cup for Bosnian coffeeWhat the coffee is poured into
SomunSoft flatbread served with ćevapiEssential to the dish
KajmakRich dairy cream/cheese-like toppingOften available with grilled meat
RakijaFruit brandyCommon hospitality drink

These signs matter because Sarajevo food culture is specialized. A ćevabdžinica is not where you go for a long menu. A buregdžinica is not where you order grilled meat. An aščinica is not there for polished tourist dining. Each place has a job, and the best ones do that job very well.


1. Ćevapi: Sarajevo’s Essential Dish

Ćevapi are the dish you must eat in Sarajevo.

They are small, skinless grilled minced-meat sausages, usually served inside soft somun bread with raw onion. The best versions have a charcoal-grill flavor, juicy meat, soft bread lightly warmed by the grill, and enough simplicity that nothing distracts from the meat and bread.

TasteAtlas describes ćevapi as a source of national pride in Bosnia and Herzegovina and one of the country’s favorite dishes, usually made from seasoned minced meat and grilled over charcoal. TasteAtlas Sarajevo dishes

In Sarajevo, you usually order by portion size:

OrderBest For
5 piecesLight meal or first tasting
7 piecesNormal hungry traveler portion
10 piecesBig meal
15+ piecesVery hungry or sharing

Five pieces is enough for many travelers if you are eating multiple times in the day. Ten is not impossible, but it can slow you down.

cevapi in Sarajevo served with somun bread and onion

How to Choose a Good Ćevapi Place

The strongest ćevapi places are usually simple.

They do not need a huge menu. They do not need aggressive waiters. They do not need to sell every Balkan dish under the sun. The classic Sarajevo ćevapi experience is focused: grilled meat, somun, onion, yogurt or sour milk if you want it, and a fast turnover of local customers.

A useful rule: if the place looks specialized and busy, it is probably a safer bet than a broad tourist restaurant selling ćevapi beside pizza, pasta, beer towers and every regional dish at once.

Some classic ćevabdžinicas do not serve alcohol. That can be a good sign of a traditional setup, but do not turn it into a hard rule. The better test is specialization, freshness, steady local traffic, and whether the grill is clearly central to the place.


Best Ćevapi Places in Sarajevo

Sarajevo locals will never fully agree on the best ćevapi. That debate is part of the culture.

For visitors, the easiest approach is to try one of the old Baščaršija institutions first, then compare another later.

Ćevabdžinica Željo

Best for: first-time visitors, classic Baščaršija ćevapi
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: famous, central, fast, easy to find
Link: Ćevabdžinica Željo on Tripadvisor

Željo is the name many visitors hear first, and for good reason. It is central, busy, and deeply associated with Sarajevo ćevapi. Tripadvisor lists Željo among Sarajevo’s well-reviewed restaurants, with a large volume of traveler reviews.

There are multiple Željo locations close together in Baščaršija, which is useful when one has a queue. If one side is packed, check the other before giving up.

Order: five or ten ćevapi in somun, with onion.
Tip: Go slightly before or after peak lunch if you hate queues.


Petica Ferhatović

Best for: old-school Sarajevo ćevapi
Area: Baščaršija / old town
Why go: one of the classic names locals and visitors compare
Link: Petica Ferhatović on Tripadvisor

Petica is another classic ćevapi institution and is often mentioned in the same conversation as Željo, Hodžić and Nune. It is a good place to try if you want a more old-school feel and do not want to simply follow the most internationally famous name.

Order: five-piece portion if you are comparing multiple places.
Tip: “Petica” means “five,” which fits the classic smaller portion.


Ćevabdžinica Hodžić

Best for: central Baščaršija ćevapi near the old bazaar
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: another canonical Sarajevo ćevapi stop
Link: Ćevabdžinica Hodžić on Tripadvisor

Hodžić is centrally located in the old town and is one of the names travelers often compare. Tripadvisor lists it as a barbecue/Eastern European restaurant near Baščaršija, with many reviews specifically mentioning ćevapi.

Order: ćevapi with onion, plus yogurt if you want the classic local pairing.
Tip: Works well as a quick lunch stop while exploring Coppersmith Street and Baščaršija.


Nune

Best for: travelers who want to compare local favorites
Area: Baščaršija / old Sarajevo area
Why go: often recommended in local and traveler discussions
Link: Sarajevo restaurant listings on Tripadvisor

Nune is another long-running Sarajevo ćevapi name that comes up often in local debates. It is less useful to overclaim that it is “the best,” because every Sarajevo resident seems to have a different answer. Better advice: try it if you are already comparing ćevapi shops and want to move beyond the most obvious first stop.

Order: five-piece or seven-piece portion.
Tip: If you have two days, try Željo once and Nune or Hodžić once.


Ćevabdžinica Kastel

Best for: trying a different ćevapi style
Area: Sarajevo
Why go: Banja Luka-style ćevapi variation
Link: Sarajevo restaurant listings on Tripadvisor

Kastel is worth considering if you want to understand that not all Bosnian ćevapi are the same. Banja Luka-style ćevapi are shaped differently and have a different texture and feel from Sarajevo-style portions.

Order: Banja Luka-style ćevapi.
Tip: Try this after you have already had the classic Sarajevo version.


The Best Way to Eat Ćevapi in Sarajevo

Do not overcomplicate it.

Order ćevapi.
Add onion.
Use your hands.
Tear the somun.
Do not rush.
Drink yogurt or sour milk if you want the classic pairing.

If you are planning a serious food day, start with five pieces. Sarajevo is a city where the mistake is not eating enough variety.


2. Burek and Pita: The Distinction That Matters

Every visitor says “burek with cheese” once.

Then someone corrects them.

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, burek means meat-filled pie. Other fillings are usually called pita, with their own names:

NameFilling
BurekMeat
SirnicaCheese
KrompiračaPotato
ZeljanicaSpinach/greens and cheese
TikvenjačaPumpkin/squash, when available

This distinction matters because Sarajevo takes food words seriously. In some countries, “burek” is used broadly for many filled pastries. In Bosnia, the meat version is burek; the others have their own names.

So do not ask for “cheese burek.” Ask for sirnica.

burek and sirnica at a Sarajevo buregdzinica

How Burek and Pita Are Served

Burek and pita are usually sold by weight.

A normal portion depends on how hungry you are, but this is a useful guide:

PortionBest For
200gSnack
300gLight breakfast
400gFull meal
500g+Serious hunger

The pastry should be warm, flaky, and soft inside. Many places serve it with yogurt or a sour cream-style sauce.

Burek and pita are best earlier in the day, especially for breakfast or brunch. Go in the morning if you want the freshest pastry.


Best Burek and Pita Places in Sarajevo

Buregdžinica Bosna

Best for: first-time burek and pita experience
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: classic, central, easy to find
Link: Buregdžinica Bosna on Tripadvisor

Buregdžinica Bosna is one of the easiest places for visitors to understand the burek/pita system. It is central, busy, and practical if you are exploring Baščaršija.

Order: burek if you eat meat; sirnica or zeljanica if you want vegetarian.
Tip: Ask for yogurt on the side.


Buregdžinica Sač

Best for: traditional sač-style pastry
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: classic old-town buregdžinica
Link: Buregdžinica Sač on Tripadvisor

Sač is another strong old-town option. The name refers to a traditional cooking method, and the place is a good stop if you want to compare more than one buregdžinica.

Order: krompirača or sirnica if you already tried meat burek elsewhere.
Tip: This is a better breakfast/brunch stop than dinner stop.


3. Aščinica: The Local Meal Most Visitors Miss

The aščinica is one of the most useful food concepts in Sarajevo.

It is a cafeteria-style eatery serving ready-made traditional dishes: soups, stews, beans, stuffed vegetables, cabbage rolls, slow-cooked meats, and vegetable dishes. You look at what is available, point or order, and eat quickly and cheaply.

This is the kind of food many locals actually eat when they are not taking visitors out for grilled meat.

It is not glamorous. That is the point.


What to Eat at an Aščinica

DishWhat It Is
Begova čorbaRich chicken and vegetable soup
GrahBean stew
SarmaStuffed cabbage rolls
JaprakStuffed vine leaves
DolmaStuffed vegetables
Bosanski lonacBosnian meat and vegetable stew
KlepeBosnian dumplings, sometimes available
Spinach and eggsSimple home-style dish

Aščinicas are excellent for lunch. They are also useful if you want a break from grilled meat and pastry.


Aščinica Hadžibajrić

Best for: traditional Bosnian home-style food
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: old-school local meal, stews and soups
Link: Aščinica Hadžibajrić on Tripadvisor

Aščinica Hadžibajrić is one of the best-known names for this style of eating. It is the place to go when you want Bosnian food that feels closer to a household lunch than a tourist restaurant meal.

Order: begova čorba, grah, sarma or whatever looks best that day.
Tip: Do not expect a long explanation of every dish if it is busy. Look, choose, eat.


Aščinica ASDŽ

Best for: low-cost local lunch in the old town
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: practical, filling, local-style food
Link: Aščinica ASDŽ on Tripadvisor

ASDŽ is another strong option if you want an aščinica-style meal. It is useful for travelers who want something warm, filling, and less tourist-facing than a sit-down restaurant.

Order: soup, stew, beans, stuffed vegetables or daily specials.
Tip: Great for lunch between old-town sightseeing stops.


4. Sit-Down Bosnian Restaurants Worth Booking

Sarajevo is not only quick food.

Ćevapi and burek are essential, but you should also have at least one proper sit-down Bosnian meal. This is where you try stews, klepe, pogača, salads, grilled meats, slow-cooked dishes, and rakija in a slower setting.


Dveri

Best for: polished traditional Bosnian food in Baščaršija
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: atmospheric interior, strong food, good first sit-down meal
Link: Dveri on Tripadvisor

Dveri is one of the easiest traditional restaurants to recommend because it works for visitors without feeling like a generic tourist trap. It is small, warm, and known for Bosnian dishes in a cozy old-town setting.

Tripadvisor lists Dveri as one of the highly rated restaurants near Baščaršija, with a large volume of reviews.

Order: pogača, sopska salad, klepe, grilled meat or house specialties.
Tip: Book or go early because it fills up.


Inat Kuća

Best for: traditional food plus Sarajevo history
Area: Opposite Sarajevo City Hall / Miljacka River
Why go: famous “House of Spite” story and Bosnian dishes
Link: Inat Kuća on Tripadvisor

Inat Kuća is a restaurant, but it is also a Sarajevo story.

The popular story is that the original house stood where Austro-Hungarian authorities wanted to build near the City Hall. The owner resisted, and the house was eventually moved stone by stone to the other side of the river. Sarajevo Times and Atlas Obscura both recount this “House of Spite” history, and the building became a traditional Bosnian restaurant in the late 1990s.

Order: begova čorba, sarma, Bosnian platter or slow-cooked dishes.
Tip: Go for the story and setting as much as the food.


Eno

Best for: garden terrace and views
Area: Hillside above the old town
Why go: view over Sarajevo, slower meal, weekend atmosphere
Link: Sarajevo restaurant listings on Tripadvisor

Eno is a good choice if you want a meal away from the densest Baščaršija circuit. The appeal is the garden, the view, and the feeling of eating above the city rather than inside the tourist core.

Order: klepe, grilled meats, Bosnian dishes.
Tip: Reserve ahead, especially on weekends.


Minjo

Best for: local-feeling traditional meal away from tourist streets
Area: Residential Sarajevo
Why go: more local than central old-town restaurants
Link: Sarajevo restaurant listings on Tripadvisor

Minjo is the kind of place to consider if you want one meal outside the obvious tourist route. It is better for travelers who have already done Baščaršija and want something more residential and local-feeling.

Order: sarma, stews or grilled dishes.
Tip: Take a taxi and confirm opening hours before going.


Nacionalni Restoran Višegrad

Best for: traditional restaurant feel and rakija
Area: Sarajevo
Why go: homely atmosphere and Bosnian menu
Link: Sarajevo restaurant listings on Tripadvisor

This is a good option if you want a less famous traditional restaurant rather than the same names every guide repeats. It works best for travelers who like old-fashioned dining rooms, local dishes, and rakija.

Order: traditional stews, grilled meat, rakija.
Tip: Good for a slower dinner rather than a quick lunch.


5. Bosnian Coffee: The Ritual, Done Properly

Bosnian coffee is not just a caffeine stop.

It is one of Sarajevo’s most important social rituals. It is served in a džezva, poured into a fildžan, and usually accompanied by sugar cubes and rahat lokum. The point is not speed. The point is time, conversation, and hospitality.

Recent Sarajevo coffee coverage highlights a point locals often make: do not casually call Bosnian coffee “Turkish coffee.” The styles are related through Ottoman history, but Bosnians often distinguish their coffee culture and preparation as something specific to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Spilling the beans on Sarajevo


How Bosnian Coffee Is Served

A traditional Bosnian coffee set usually includes:

ItemWhat It Is
DžezvaCopper pot with long handle
FildžanSmall handleless cup
Sugar cubesUsually dipped or bitten, not simply stirred
Rahat lokumSweet similar to Turkish delight
WaterOften served before or alongside coffee
Copper trayTraditional presentation

How to Drink Bosnian Coffee

There is no need to perform the ritual perfectly, but this is the basic idea:

Drink water first.
Let the grounds settle.
Pour slowly into the fildžan.
Do not pour the muddy grounds into the cup.
Dip or bite sugar if you want sweetness.
Sip slowly.
Do not drink the final grounds at the bottom.

Do not rush it. If someone says “hajmo na kahvu,” the invitation is not only about caffeine. It means “let’s sit and talk.”


Where to Drink Bosnian Coffee in Sarajevo

Morića Han

Best for: Ottoman-era atmosphere in Baščaršija
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: historic caravanserai setting
Link: Morića Han

Morića Han is one of the most atmospheric places to experience coffee in the old bazaar area. It works especially well if you want a setting that feels connected to Sarajevo’s trading and Ottoman-era history.


Viennese Café / Bečka Kafana area

Best for: Austro-Hungarian interior and grand café feel
Area: Near Gazi Husrev-beg Bezistan / Hotel Europe area
Why go: different Sarajevo coffee atmosphere
Link: Hotel Europe Sarajevo

Sarajevo’s coffee culture is not only Ottoman-style. The city also has an Austro-Hungarian layer, and grand café interiors help explain that side of the city.


Baščaršija Traditional Cafés

Best for: simple, local old-town coffee
Area: Baščaršija
Why go: easiest traditional coffee experience
Link: Baščaršija on Visit Sarajevo

If you do not want to overplan, simply sit in a traditional café in Baščaršija and order Bosnian coffee. The old town is the right place to experience it.


Buying a Džezva in Sarajevo

If you want a useful souvenir, buy a copper džezva set from Kazandžiluk, the coppersmith street near Baščaršija.

Look for handmade pieces rather than cheap decorative sets. Coppersmithing and metalwork are part of Sarajevo’s old bazaar identity, and recent travel coverage has highlighted renewed interest in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s traditional crafts around Baščaršija and Konjic.

For day trips to Konjic and craft heritage, read: Best Day Trips from Sarajevo 2026


6. Bosnian Sweets and Lesser-Known Dishes

Sarajevo food is often described through ćevapi and burek, but the city has more to offer.

Tufahija

Tufahija is a poached apple stuffed with walnuts and topped with whipped cream. It has Ottoman influence and appears in many Bosnian dessert menus.

Best for: light dessert after a heavy meal
Where to try: traditional restaurants and dessert cafés

tufahija Bosnian poached apple dessert with walnuts and cream

Klepe

Klepe are Bosnian dumplings, often filled with minced meat and served with sour cream, yogurt, or kajmak-style sauce.

They are less famous than ćevapi but absolutely worth trying because they show a different side of Bosnian comfort food.

Best for: sit-down dinner
Where to try: Dveri, Eno or traditional restaurants


Begova Čorba

Begova čorba, or Bey’s soup, is a rich soup usually made with chicken, vegetables and a creamy/sour finish.

It is warming, filling, and ideal in winter or on a rainy day.

Best for: lunch starter or winter meal
Where to try: aščinicas and traditional restaurants

Sarajevo food guide 2026

Sarma

Sarma is stuffed cabbage rolls, usually filled with meat and rice.

This is more home-style than tourist-style food and is one of the dishes that makes an aščinica or traditional restaurant worthwhile.

Best for: comfort food
Where to try: aščinicas, Minjo, Inat Kuća or traditional restaurants

Sarajevo food guide 2026

Rakija

Rakija is fruit brandy, often made from plum, grape, pear or other fruit.

It is part of hospitality culture across the Balkans. You do not have to drink heavily, and you can politely decline, but if someone offers a small glass in a friendly setting, understand that it may be a gesture of welcome rather than a drinking challenge.

Best for: after dinner or kafana evenings
Tip: Drink slowly. It is stronger than it looks.

Rakija

7. Vegetarian Food in Sarajevo

Sarajevo is a meat-heavy city, but vegetarians can still eat well if they know where to look.

The easiest vegetarian options are at buregdžinicas and aščinicas.

Vegetarian OptionWhere to Find It
SirnicaBuregdžinicas
ZeljanicaBuregdžinicas
KrompiračaBuregdžinicas
GrahAščinicas, but confirm if meat-free
Sopska saladTraditional restaurants
Grilled vegetablesSit-down restaurants
Cheese and bread platesKafanas / restaurants
Falafel / Mediterranean foodBaščaršija and central Sarajevo

Useful phrases:

Vegetarijanac sam. = I am vegetarian.
Bez mesa. = Without meat.
Ima li nešto bez mesa? = Is there something without meat?

Important note: bean stew, soups and vegetables may still be cooked with meat stock or pieces of meat. Ask if you are strict.


8. Sarajevo Food Itinerary

One-Day Sarajevo Food Route

TimeWhat to Eat
MorningSirnica or burek at a buregdžinica
Mid-morningBosnian coffee in Baščaršija
LunchFive or seven ćevapi at Željo, Petica, Hodžić or Nune
AfternoonTufahija or baklava-style dessert
DinnerDveri, Inat Kuća or another traditional restaurant
LateRakija or live kafana if you want nightlife

Two-Day Sarajevo Food Route

Day 1: Classics

TimePlan
BreakfastBurek or sirnica
CoffeeTraditional Bosnian coffee
LunchĆevapi in Baščaršija
SnackTufahija or lokum
DinnerDveri or Inat Kuća

Day 2: Local and Deeper

TimePlan
BreakfastKrompirača or zeljanica
LunchAščinica Hadžibajrić or ASDŽ
AfternoonCoffee and coppersmith street
DinnerEno, Minjo or a local traditional restaurant
LateKafana with rakija and music

What Does Food Cost in Sarajevo?

Sarajevo is still very good value compared with most European capitals.

Use these as planning ranges, not fixed prices.

ItemTypical Planning Range
Five-piece ćevapi€3–€5
Larger ćevapi portion€5–€8
Burek/pita portion€2–€5
Bosnian coffee€1.50–€3
Aščinica lunch€4–€8
Traditional restaurant lunch€8–€15
Sit-down dinner with drink€15–€25
Rakija€2–€5
Dessert€2–€5

Prices rise in the most tourist-heavy old-town restaurants, but Sarajevo remains affordable if you eat at specialized places rather than broad tourist menus.


Common Food Mistakes in Sarajevo

Calling sirnica “cheese burek”

Locals will understand what you mean, but the correct word is sirnica.

Eating only ćevapi

Ćevapi are essential, but Sarajevo food is much broader: pita, stews, soups, coffee, desserts, and kafana meals.

Choosing restaurants with huge tourist menus

Specialized places are often better. Go to a ćevabdžinica for ćevapi, a buregdžinica for pita, and an aščinica for stews.

Rushing Bosnian coffee

Bosnian coffee is not a takeaway drink. Sit down and give it time.

Expecting vegetarian food to be obvious

Vegetarian options exist, but you need to ask and know the right dishes.

Overeating too early

Sarajevo food is filling. If you want to try multiple things, start with small portions.


Final Verdict: How to Eat Well in Sarajevo

The best way to eat in Sarajevo is to follow the city’s food structure.

Do not look for one restaurant that serves everything. That is not how Sarajevo works best.

Go to a ćevabdžinica for ćevapi.
Go to a buregdžinica for burek, sirnica, zeljanica and krompirača.
Go to an aščinica for stews, soups and local lunch dishes.
Go to a kafana or traditional restaurant when you want the meal to become a longer evening.
Drink Bosnian coffee slowly, and do not call it Turkish coffee unless you want a correction.

If you only have one day, eat ćevapi, burek or sirnica, Bosnian coffee, and one traditional restaurant meal.

If you have two or three days, add an aščinica, a kafana, tufahija, klepe, and a second ćevapi place so you can join the Sarajevo argument about which one is best.

That argument has been going on for decades.

You will not solve it.

But eating your way through it is one of the best things to do in Sarajevo.


FAQs About Sarajevo Food

Ćevapi is the most famous food in Sarajevo. It is made of small grilled minced-meat sausages served in somun bread with raw onion. The best places to try it are traditional ćevabdžinicas in Baščaršija such as Željo, Petica, Hodžić and Nune.

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, burek usually means the meat-filled pie. Other fillings have separate names: sirnica is cheese, krompirača is potato, and zeljanica is spinach or greens with cheese. Do not ask for “cheese burek” if you want to order like a local.

No. Bosnian coffee is related to Ottoman coffee traditions, but locals often distinguish it from Turkish coffee in preparation, serving style and cultural meaning. It is served in a džezva and fildžan, usually with sugar cubes and rahat lokum.

Start with one of the classic Baščaršija ćevabdžinicas: Željo, Petica Ferhatović, Hodžić or Nune. Each has loyal supporters, and locals disagree on which is best. Try one, then compare another if you have time.

An aščinica is a cafeteria-style eatery serving ready-made traditional Bosnian dishes such as soups, stews, beans, sarma, stuffed vegetables and slow-cooked meals. It is one of the best places for a cheap local lunch in Sarajevo.

Sarajevo is meat-heavy, but vegetarians can eat well if they know what to order. Good options include sirnica, zeljanica, krompirača, sopska salad, some bean stews, grilled vegetables and Mediterranean-style restaurants. Strict vegetarians should ask whether soups or stews contain meat or meat stock.

Try tufahija, a poached apple stuffed with walnuts and topped with cream. You can also try baklava-style sweets, rahat lokum with coffee, and other Ottoman-influenced desserts.

Sarajevo is affordable by European standards. A portion of ćevapi may cost around €3–€8 depending on size and location. Burek or pita can be around €2–€5. A simple aščinica lunch may cost around €4–€8, while a sit-down traditional dinner with drinks may be around €15–€25 per person.

Drink Bosnian coffee during the day and rakija if you want to try a traditional alcoholic drink. Yogurt or sour milk is also common with ćevapi or burek.

Baščaršija is the best food area for first-time visitors. It has the highest concentration of ćevabdžinicas, buregdžinicas, coffee houses, dessert shops and traditional restaurants.

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